#DIY SPLIT RAIL FENCE WITH BRANCHES INSTALL#

For our 48вЂі tall fence, we measured and marked at 49вЂі leave a little play for when itвЂ™s time to install the wire fencing. On each post and from the ground up, measure and mark a point slightly higher than the height of the wire fence. Even if it looks nice and level, it most likely is not, but you want the fence to follow the contour of the land, so at this point, the level goes out the window. Some of the holes were slightly out of place and/or the posts looked вЂњoffвЂќ due to uncooperative rocks.) Setting the Top Rail is Key

(NOTE: During the post install phase, we were regularly checking the lengths/runs and making minor adjustments to the uprights. Once all the posts are in place move on to the rails. Then, using a level, run a string line between all corners and set, plumb and brace the remaining posts. It helps to set, plumb and brace the corner posts first so youвЂ™ve got fixed points to work off of. Our postholes had to be 42вЂі deep to make sure they went below the frost line (check your local building codes so you know how deep to dig) and other than a couple that fell a little short, we hit the mark. The ground our house sits on is rocky, so even using the auger was no piece of cake. Run a string line to indicate the fence perimeter and mark 8вЂІ apart where the holes will go. This allowed for better stability with no butted joints.

We decided on 8вЂІ so that each 16вЂІ rail would end up being fastened to, and spanning three posts. (Amount of material will vary depending on the overall dimensions.) We gained quite a bit of extra footage by butting the fence to a section of wraparound porch on one side and our deck on the other so that these two barriers act as part of the fencing. bag of pre-mixed concrete per postholeДЄn auger (or posthole digger and shovel if you happen to be a glutton for punishment)Д«uilding the Split Rail Fence Each post was braced during building.ДЇirst, decide where the fence will run and get a rough layout so you know how much material to buy. Materials for the Split Rail Fence:Д¤ x 4вЂі x 8вЂІ pressure treated lumber for the postsДў x 4вЂі x 16вЂІ pressure treated lumber for the railsД¤8вЂі x 100вЂІ pet/pest galvanized steel gridded fence Whether you need to keep puppies in or pests out, this just might be an appealing alternative to the traditional split rail fence. The вЂњDog WhispererвЂќ I am not, and I was clearly delusional in thinking I could have them trained to stay on command by the age of four months. This split rail looking fence with wire mesh was a necessity for us since the arrival of two puppies not long ago. Set the level on the side, and the front or back of the post, and make sure the bubble is within the lines.Okay, so itвЂ™s not technically a true split rail, but itвЂ™s a sturdier alternative. Once the hole is deep enough, use a carpenters level to make sure the fence post is plumb in all directions. (You can easily check if the tops are the same height by setting a board across the tops of two posts, and setting a carpenters level on the board.) 4. You can either cut your posts to height after theyвЂ™re set, or do what we did and adjust the hole depth for each post. Make sure that the tops of all the posts are level to each other. The post should be positioned so that the end of the rail is in the middle of the post. We also measured the distance back from the street. Once the first post was set, we used one of the rail boards to measure the distance to the next post hole. If you are building a taller, heavier post and rail fence, buy longer posts and dig deeper holes. Since my fence is short, and not bearing any real load, this is sufficient. We sunk our posts 12вЂі deep, and set them with dirt вЂ“ no concrete. Once this was dry, I applied an additional waterproofing sealant to the posts and the rails on all sides.ДЄ crowbar may be helpful for loosening rocks as you dig. Since I made my fence posts from scrap wood that was untreated, I started by applying a coat of a wood preservative to the section that would go in the ground. This allowed it some time to cure before going outside. Weatherproof the DIY fence posts and railsДЄ few days before starting to build the fence, I applied a weather proofing treatment to all of the wood pieces. If you are fencing more than one side, repeat this calculation for each side. You may need to adjust your board lengths slightly, if your distance doesnвЂ™t divide evenly. Including the starting post, that makes a total of seven posts I used for my project. Since I wanted a two rail fence, I knew I would need to buy twelve fence rails (two boards every six feet). I decided to use six-foot long rails, because it divides evenly into 36 (six times). Start by measuring the length of the space you want to fence, to determine how much material you need.ДЇor example, my front garden is 36вЂІ long.

#DIY SPLIT RAIL FENCE WITH BRANCHES FREE#

I scored free fence posts from the scrap wood pile.

Diy split rail fence with branches